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For anyone who's ever wandered the supermarket aisles wondering if the £9 Malbec is supposed to taste like Ribena and regret - or if there's something better lurking online - Laithwaites wants to be your answer. With a half-century of history and an ever-growing catalogue of wines from across the…For anyone who's ever wandered the supermarket aisles wondering if the £9 Malbec is supposed to taste like Ribena and…
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For anyone who's ever wandered the supermarket aisles wondering if the £9 Malbec is supposed to taste like Ribena and regret - or if there's something better lurking online - Laithwaites wants to be your answer. With a half-century of history and an ever-growing catalogue of wines from across the globe, the UK-based retailer has positioned itself as a kind of Amazon-for-oenophiles, pairing clever logistics with a clubby charm. The pitch: exclusive wines, flexible delivery, and a personalised service that sounds a lot more artisanal than it probably is. And plenty of clever discounts, of course.
Every brand has its founding myth, and Laithwaites’ is drenched in European romance. Tony Laithwaite, it turns out, didn’t start out as a wine merchant. He was, in his own telling, a university underachiever who went to France in the 1960s chasing culture - and maybe a more exciting future than anything the British civil service could offer. The company often recounts how his initial stint washing wine bottles in Bordeaux turned into a long-term passion, and eventually, a business. His first wine deliveries were loaded into a white van and driven from rural French cellars to British doorsteps.
"It’s a charming story," says Professor James Simpson, economic historian and author of Creating Wine: The Emergence of a World Industry, 1840–1914. "But like all good business myths, it obscures the complex factors - market timing, deregulated trade, rising middle class wealth - that made Laithwaites possible."
Today, Laithwaites is less a man and a van and more a sprawling wine distribution machine. The company offers a range of subscription services - by varietal, region, or even occasion. There’s a club for "red enthusiasts," another for "adventurous pallets," and so on. Each delivers curated cases every few months, often backed by a discount offer in double digits. There's even a trial shipment - a sort of "try before you celler" - designed to lure new customers into a longer-term relationship with their wine rack.
"In some ways, it’s the Netflix model applied to alcohol," says Jessica Mason, senior reporter at The Grocer, who covers the UK drinks trade. "The illusion of choice, some exclusivity, and a recurring charge you forget to cancel."
Customers can tweak their boxes - swap bottles they don’t like, or pause deliveries - which helps fend off subscription fatigue. But while the interface is slick and the tone friendly, the mechanics are ultimately fairly standard for today’s online retail.
Laithwaites talks a lot about exclusivity. The word appears frequently in marketing copy, suggesting hard-to-find vintages carefully sourced from obscure producers. In reality, "exclusive" often just means you’ll only find a certain label through Laithwaites - not that it’s scarce on the global market, or created in micro-batches by a bespectacled elder crushing grapes with his feet. Many of the wines are made in partnership with large co-ops or mid-size wineries looking to scale sales in the UK.
And what of quality? The company touts a number of awards, though these tend to be industry-specific and predictable in scale. (The international wine and spirits awards circuit, like the film festival circuit, has something of an inflation problem.)
Still, customers don’t seem to mind. The Better Business Bureau generally likes them. So do Trustpilot reviewers, though positive ratings often hinge more on delivery speed and customer service than tasting notes.
Laithwaites’ core market seems to be the aspirational enthusiast - someone smart enough to know there's a difference between Bordeaux and Burgundy, but not yet ready to decode the difference between left bank and right. For this kind of shopper, the promise of handpicked French reds or small-batch South African whites, curated by "wine detectives" and backed by "satisfaction guarantees," is reassuring.
They also know their audience prizes value. NHS discounts, student offers, coupon codes and seasonal bundles are baked into the product experience. "If you pay full price, you’re doing it wrong," notes James Green, a retail analyst at Kantar. "Laithwaites relies heavily on promotional psychology to drive sales - it’s not so much about cost as it is about perceived deal-making."
Add to this regular "Mystery Cases" (wine roulette, essentially), and gamified referral bonuses that echo the old Avon model - introduce a friend, get free wine - and the entire experience feels more like a lifestyle brand than a traditional retailer.
Running on alcohol isn't without its stumbles. In 2020, during the first UK lockdown, Laithwaites was among many online alcohol sellers who struggled to meet demand. Delivery delays and out-of-stock issues prompted a flurry of customer complaints. The company apologised, eventually streamlined logistics, and emerged relatively unscathed.
A subtler criticism has centred on the tension between the brand’s crafted image and the industrial scale at which it now operates. While still billed as "family-run," Laithwaites is part of the Direct Wines Ltd group, a global business with operations in Australia, the US, and the UK. For those who imagined a one-man French adventure extended across decades, the spreadsheets behind the showroom may come as a bit of a letdown.
For all its complexity and polish, Laithwaites is still fundamentally a retail business. Its main function is not to educate drinkers or develop palates, but to move boxes of relatively drinkable wine at respectable margins. Gift sets with Prosecco and glasses, or e-vouchers loaded with whimsy, do well. So do feel-good hampers during Christmas.
But for serious wine lovers - those who care about vintage variations, or about terroir beyond the buzzword - Laithwaites may feel like a missed opportunity. The wines are carefully crafted to be inoffensive, which is, ironically, its most damning characteristic.
Laithwaites sells wine the way Ikea sells homeware: polished, predictable, and priced to move. It may not transform your tasting habits, but for professionals too busy to brave a wine shop - or too weary of algorithms to trust supermarket labels - it offers something rare: competent convenience with a glass of theatre.
Don’t expect revelation. But do expect your wine to arrive on time, nicely boxed, accompanied by some vague tasting notes, and perhaps a limited-time discount printed in cheerful font. Which, for most people, is more than enough.
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⭐ Rating: 3.5 / 5 (17 votes)